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Off the coast of Panama, secluded and self-ruled by one of Panama’s seven Indigenous communities, lies Guna Yala: a province of hundreds of islands in the Caribbean. Guna Yala, formerly called the San Blas Islands, is one of my favorite places to visit in Panama and one of the most unique experiences you’ll find in the Americas.
Disclosure: I visited Guna Yala while attending the ATWS hosted pre-summit adventure in Panama.
I have visited Panama multiple times and this is the first time I’ve been able to plan sufficiently enough to make it to Guna Yala. It isn’t an easy journey, and travelers passing through often make the mistake of trying to squeeze in too much as a day tour.
Truth is, I recommend you stay at least one night to really immerse yourself (and even that will feel like it isn’t enough!) This guide to visiting Guna Yala / San Blas Panama will help you do just that.
What Know About Guna Yala
Learn about Guna Yula with these interesting facts.
What is guna yala known for?
If you haven’t heard of Guna Yala before, you may have heard of San Blas instead. It is an archipelago off the Caribbean coast of Panama and home to over 400 islands and cayes.
Years ago, Panama officially changed its name from San Blas to Guna Yala to more accurately represent the Guna tribe. You may see it used interchangeably with San Blas, or spelled Kuna Yala (a previous spelling), but when in Panama and officially, it is “Guna Yala”.
The Guna Yala province is best known for its beautiful islands off the Caribbean coast, self-governed indigenous community, and matrilineal society. Out of over 400 islands, the Guna reside on nearly 50 of those islands – with properties mostly owned by women!
Who are the guna people in Panama?
The Guna people are one of Panama’s seven Indigenous communities (the Ngäbe, Buglé, Emberá, Wounaan, Bri Bri, and the Naso Tjërdi are the other six). They can also be found in Colombia.
They previously lived in the coastal jungle, but between genocide, trade, and disease, they began to occupy the islands in the 1800’s. Despite Panama’s attempts to assimilate, the Guna are one of the few tribes in the world who fought for and won autonomy.
Guna are known for their revolutionary rebellion, the 1925 Kuna Revolution, holding on to their customs and traditions and ultimately becoming an autonomous territory.
Why is San Blas famous?
Previously a hidden gem, social media has made Guna Yala (San Blas Panama) even more famous for its pristine blue-green waters, white-sand beaches, and access to an immersive experience supporting the local Indigenous economy.
With so much focus on the Panama Canal as a destination, Guna Yala offers a stark contrast to the famous canal and Panama City’s urban surroundings. Tourism makes up nearly 80% of their economy.
How to Get to Guna Yala
The best ways to get to the San Blas Islands.
Guna Yala is on the Caribbean side of the Panama coast. The ultimate way to get to the islands is by boat, and there is a local Kuna tax ($20 USD cash per person) for going through their territory.
When I visited Guna Yala, I was already on a week-long adventure tour through a company called Cultour Panama. I came from visiting the Embera Puru village in Chagres National Park and we drove to the coast to be transported to the island we booked accommodations on (Yani Island).
The company I used (Cultour Panama reviews here) already had direct contact with local Guna tribe members and arranged our transport, boat rides, and even snorkeling experiences for island hopping days.
How do I go from Panama City to Guna Yala?
If you are not going to Guna Yala on a tour and want to visit from Panama City, there are a few things to know.
- You’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to get to the port (4×4 is required due to the terrain and it is about a 3-hour drive from Panama City).
- You need to pay a $20/pp tax plus $5 tax per vehicle (USD)
- Then get a water taxi at Puerto de Carti (Cartí Port) – $2-5 port tax; water taxi pricing varies but bring cash. Your accommodations may be able to arrange your boat so check with them first.
If a day tour to Guna Yala is your preferred option, try these:
What to Expect Visiting Guna Yala
What to know about visiting San Blas, so you come prepared!
Is San Blas expensive?
Based on my experience, Guna Yala is not a cheap place to visit, and cash is king. Panama in general isn’t a budget destination, so you can expect to spend a few hundred dollars for just a couple of days in San Blas.
Here are some examples of costs to prepare for:
Cash currency is essential around the islands and there are no ATMs for when you run out. Everything has a cost too: tips, boat rides, rentals, food, drinks, and accommodations.
I did not drink alcohol and don’t buy souvenirs, so I brought $100 in pocket money in cash knowing that my meals and accommodation were paid for by the tour I booked. Otherwise, I would’ve had to bring more.
- Accommodations can cost $75-300 dollars per night depending on the quality.
- Sodas and small water bottles were $3 and coconut water was $5.
- Unfinished Mola fabric squares (souvenirs) started at about $10
- I spent about $60 in tips throughout the stay
- Locals charge $2-5 per photo to take pictures of them
- Each tour (including island hopping) costs money if you don’t book a package
Comfort in Guna Yala
The one thing you’ll want to know coming into this is, that this is not a five-star vacation experience in a materialistic sense. Unless you charter a yacht and arrange to visit Guna Yala that way (still may have to pay visitation fees), you are going to experience a no-frills, simple lifestyle – even at the higher price points.
The boat ride will be bumpy and long, and eventually uncomfortable. You’ll wish you had brought a fan in the lodging, and the food will be good but not great. If you are vegetarian or vegan you’ll especially have a hard time because we pretty much ate fish and eggs every day. This requires extra prep on your part.
That said, I LOVED the experience and immediately thought of ways I could get back there to bring loved ones. I knew I needed to manage expectations, and because I did it was much easier to adapt.
Is English Spoken in San Blas?
The Guna speak Kuna as their primary language, but many (especially younger people) also speak Spanish. This is where having a tour guide comes in handy if you don’t speak Spanish.
I did not hear any English at all when I was visiting San Blas. I spoke Spanish to everyone, as did our tour guide. The tour group members who did not speak Spanish looked to us Spanish speakers for help and learned a few essential words along the way. I am sure some Guna spoke English, from having worked in tourism over the years, but I did not hear it myself.
Island Hopping Guna Yala
My tips for seeing multiple islands in San Blas
Island Hopping in Guna Yala
One of the key things to do in Guna Yala is go island hopping. There isn’t much to do on the islands that doesn’t revolve around relaxation and water, so enjoy it! I had my water-resistant Kindle Paperwhite and snorkels from the tour. That was all I needed.
When I did my tour of Guna Yala, we visited three islands and two cayes/sandbars (in addition to the island we stayed on). You can squeeze about 3-4 spots in one day before you start getting tired, but remember that the distance between some islands can be an hour away by boat so it is best to allow your guide to recommend the best distances.
Places I recommend are Yani Island, los Cayos Holandeses, and Nalunega for a peek at local life and to purchase artisanal Mola fabrics (note: taking pictures of locals is not encouraged).
Where to Stay on Guna Yala
My tips on where to stay in San Blas
Accommodations in Guna Yala can vary wildly. There are different classes of lodging on the islands in San Blas, and they can range from simple tents to waterfront or overwater cabins.
I stayed on Yani Island and loved it, though I made sure to manage my expectations beforehand. Here is some insight on that experience:
Through the tour I took, I stayed in an overwater cabin but the accommodations were still very basic. I had one simple lightbulb (it barely lit the room so I didn’t use it much), one side table, and a simple bed/mattress. There was no fan and limited electricity, no netting or window screens, and we used shared bathroom facilities (which were modern toilets that required water for flushing). We did have showers and they were able to cook for us/sell drinks at the communal dining area.
Here is a video of what my typical mornings were like on Yani Island:
What to Pack for San Blas Panama
My secrets to packing perfectly for Guna Yala in Panama.
Packing for Guna Yala is the easiest thing you’ll do! I had one small backpack filled with everything I needed for two days. Here’s what I brought:
Clothing:
- 2 bathing suits
- 1 beach towel
- Rashguard shirt (UV protection on boat)
- Shorts
- 1 PJ set
- 2 shirts (one long sleeve)
Shoes:
- Sandals that are beach-friendly (I used my Birkenstocks)
- Flip flops for the shower
Personal items/toiletries:
- Medication
- Sunscreen (reef-safe)
- Bug spray
- Toothbrush/toothpaste
- Shampoo/conditioner
- Contacts/glasses
- Sunglasses
Gear:
- Cameras (I brought my Insta360, GoPro, Sony a7c)
- Powerbank (there’s no electricity so this has to be powerful to charge multiple devices)
- Drybag (ESSENTIAL! Your stuff can get wet in the boat so keep electronics dry)
- Lightweight tripod (I use this one for my iPhone)
- Flashlight and fan (I use this combo one which made me so much more comfortable while there)
Is San Blas Worth Visiting?
Here’s the truth about visiting Guna Yala – is it worth it?
How to Protect San Blas for the Future
With climate change and rising water levels, we don’t know how long Guna Yala will be there to explore. Some experts say only another 80 years!
Some islands have already started planning to relocate because of rising sea levels and erosion. So how can you help? If you love paradises like this, think of the environmental impact of our daily actions so these communities can access paradise for generations to come.
When you snorkel here, wear reef-safe sunscreen and be aware of not touching marine life. Coral reefs help prevent erosion and protect the shorelines. When visiting islands, invest in hiring local tours that know how to navigate the islands so you can avoid overcrowding on overpopulated islands. And always practice Leave No Trace principles, aiming to leave a place better than you found it.
Is San Blas, Panama worth it?
Guna Yala takes some effort to get to and is not a quick and cheap drop-by. So is it worth it? I say 100% yes. As a Caribbean descendant and someone who loves islands and snorkeling, Guna Yala was the highlight of my last trip to Panama, and I am already thinking about going back.
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